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pietillidie
Joined: 07 Jan 2005
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| Post subject: Is St Agnes XO brandy the greatest Australian spirit ever? |  |
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Okay, it's expensive, but it's great to see some diversity in local offerings, even if at the top end. Anyone had the pleasure of trying it? I think the last time I had brandy was in mum's Xmas cake!
| Executive Style wrote: | Is St Agnes XO brandy the greatest Australian spirit ever?
The list of great of Aussie spirits includes some impressive drops. From Sullivans Cove's world-beating French Oak, to Four Pillars Navy Strength – a winner at the recent Global Gin Masters – and Bundaberg Rum's Golden Reserve, we know what we're doing.
At a recent media event for two new St Agnes XO brandies – a 22-year-old Imperial, and a 40-year-old Grand Reserve – Stuart Gregor, the president of the Australian Distillers Association, declared the Grand Reserve the best Australian spirit he had ever tasted.
While it should be noted Gregor was wearing his PR hat - he owns the company providing the event's promotional oomph - nobody in the room accused him of hubris. Indeed, one scribe compared it to a champion 60-year-old French cognac he'd once tried.
So just how good are the new high-end XOs? Tim White, writing in the AFR, referred to them as being "as fine as any aged spirits you'll find anywhere", describing the $199-a-bottle Imperial as a fabulously complex palate (of fruit and nut cake and perfectly formed phenolics), that is "marvellous stuff, world class brandy" and scoring it a 97/100. He scored the $795 Grand Reserve a 98.
Both will sit on the shelf beside St Agnes' existing 15-year-old XO that sells for $99; a relative bargain considering the lineage.
I've always said that brandy will have its turn again ... that time is now.
With such critical acclaim and the sheer quality of the product, why isn't St Agnes better known here in Australia and globally? Have whisky and cognac stolen the march on the spirit connoisseur?
"The challenge for us as producers of St Agnes XO is that we are not cognac," says Richard Angove, director of St Agnes distillery and Angove Family Winemakers.
"Hennessy has got a lot of money to spend on their marketing and consequently cognac has cornered the premium brandy market. And because cognac is a controlled appellation, we cannot use the term to describe brandy in Australia, just as Australian bubbly producers cannot use the term champagne."
He also sees the decline of brandy as a result of its perception as an older person's drink. "It's a crisis of fashion," Angove says. "Look at gin; fifteen years ago it was extremely unfashionable, now there are gin bars springing up everywhere."
Richard's father John Angove, the managing director of Angove Family Winemakers, agrees. "I've watched fashions come and go for the past forty-five years," he says, "When I began in this business brandy was the number one Australian spirit. Back in the '50s and '60s every winemaker had a brandy on their list, now there are only about four, including us."
St Agnes has had a long and impressive history. Started by Richard Angove's great grandfather, Carl following a trip to Cognac, he set up the distillery on the banks of Murray River in 1925 and has been producing quality brandy ever since.
Over the past 90 years St Agnes has only had five master distillers. Currently it's Ben Horley who spent ten years learning the trade from John Norman who was with St Agnes for more than 40 years.
One of the reasons that brandy is not so popular with the accountants of distilling companies is because of the length of time it takes to turn a profit. To wear the XO (eXtra Old) label, the brandy has to be aged for a minimum of six years in wood with the age statement representing the youngest spirit used. So for example, the new XO Imperial is blended from seven different spirits, including a 22-year-old spirit, with the oldest component being a 40-year-old.
"This gives the Imperial a nice complexity and a real elegance," says Richard Angove. "It's my personal favourite. We didn't have quite so many blending options when it came to the Grand Reserve."
Nowadays the 15-year-old St Agnes XO uses colombard grapes; a white cognac variety that produces the very neutral, dry spirit required for brandy that will age well. The Imperial and Grand Reserve were produced from doradillo grapes, a Spanish sherry variety that is equally up to the task.
Angoves admits that with the release of the new XOs they are trying to hitch their wagon to the worldwide interest in high-end spirits.
"I've always said that brandy will have its turn again, and now with the rise of premium spirits and boutique distillers, that time is now," says John Angove. "Perhaps down the track we'll see the advent of brandy bars. It will be exciting if we can create that sort of groundswell around this fabulous spirit."
Indeed Angoves' mission is to reposition St Agnes on a global scale. They have already established a couple of customers in China, and are also being sold through a fine wine retailer in London.
"We won't ever be looking at a broad release across every liquor store," says John. "We simply haven't got the volume to do that. For example, we'll be releasing just 500 bottles of the Grand Reserve per annum. The current release is from 1971."
As to how to enjoy your XO brandy, John Angove recommends having 30ml in a tulip glass, neat or with just one ice cube. "We wouldn't recommend mixing a 40 year old in a cocktail, but really it's up to you." |
http://www.executivestyle.com.au/is-st-agnes-xo-brandy-the-greatest-australian-spirit-ever-givq4i
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In the end the rain comes down, washes clean the streets of a blue sky town.
Help Nick's: http://www.magpies.net/nick/bb/fundraising.htm |
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Tannin 
Can't remember
Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Location: Huon Valley Tasmania
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Blimey! You mean even better than Corio Five Star?
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�Let's eat Grandma.� Commas save lives! |
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pietillidie
Joined: 07 Jan 2005
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^Shhh. Don't tell Hiss and his Missus—they've just signed a 5-year, multi-dollar contract to endorse Corio Five Star!
_________________
In the end the rain comes down, washes clean the streets of a blue sky town.
Help Nick's: http://www.magpies.net/nick/bb/fundraising.htm |
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think positive 
Side By Side
Joined: 30 Jun 2005
Location: somewhere
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I like that other spirit, son of God,
Also known as buckley
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You cant fix stupid, turns out you cant quarantine it either! |
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Pies4shaw 
pies4shaw
Joined: 08 Oct 2007
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| What's wrong with over-proof Bundy? Always enjoyed that when I was young (perhaps this is why my liver and I are no longer on speaking terms). |
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5150 
Joined: 31 Aug 2005
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| should be good to cook with then... |
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Dangles
Balmey Army
Joined: 14 May 2015
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| I suddenly feel like a drink. |
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think positive
Side By Side
Joined: 30 Jun 2005
Location: somewhere
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| Dangles wrote: | | I suddenly feel like a drunk. |
fixed
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You cant fix stupid, turns out you cant quarantine it either! |
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Mugwump
Joined: 28 Jul 2007
Location: Between London and Melbourne
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Haven't tried it, but if some hardy soul imports it over here I'll certainly give it a go.
A really good cognac is one of the finest things life has to offer, though it is probably not what your mum puts in her Xmas cake, PTID. At least I hope it's not- she is wasting her money if she puts good cognac to that use.
It's not cheap - probably about $90/bottle - but Hine Rare VSOP is one of life's (just) affordable luxuries, and worth every cent.
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Two more flags before I die! |
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pietillidie
Joined: 07 Jan 2005
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^That got me to look up the difference between brandy and cognac:
| Taking a punt on hadtoknow.com wrote: | Brandy is the collective name for spirits distilled from wine. The traditional name for this liquor is brandywine, and it is 30%-60% alcohol after distillation. Many varieties and labels of brandy and cognac are available, including those produced in France, the rest of Europe, and even North America and Australia. Here is a guide to help you buy brandy and cognac, and understand the difference between the two spirits.
Aging is an essential step in bringing out the flavor of brandy made from grape wine. Often the price of brandy is directly proportional to how long it has been aged, so you tend to get what you pay for. There are some fine tasing cheap brandies, but it depends on the grape and the distillery.
Cognac is a particular variety of brandy made from Ugni Blanc grapes. Wine from Ugni Blanc grapes is distilled twice in copper pots, and aged at least two years in oak barrels. In common usage, the word "brandy" often denotes any kind of brandy that isn't specifically cognac. In Europe, brandy can only be called "cognac" if it is made in the Cognac region of France. In the US, any brandy produced under this special process may be bear the label of cognac. The traditional system of grading congnac is as follows:
VS-very special, aged at least 2 years (the industry average is actually longer)
VSOP-very special old pale, aged at least 4 years (again, the industry average is longer)
XO-extra old, must be aged at least 6 years, though many high-end XO cognacs are at least 20 years old.
A similar rating system exists for brandy, with AC being younger than VS.
Fruit brandies are distilled from other fruit wines, such as apple, cherry, peach, or other berries and tree fruits. Their alcohol concentrations are comparable to brandy, but they are not aged for as long brandy and cognac. Applejack is an American apple brandy distilled from hard cider, and kirsch is a German brandy distilled from cherry liquor.
There is even a type of brandy made from the non-juice parts of the grape, called pomace. Pomace brandy is distilled from the fermented mash of grape pulp, skin, seeds, and stems. It may sound unappealing, but this unaged spirit has a good flavor, and is less sweet and fruity than brandywine.
Brandy may also be cut with clear hard liquor, such as vodka. Since the taste of brandy and cognac is distinctive and very strong, the resulting spirit has all the flavor of brandy, but is much cheaper. This was popular in parts of Europe when brandy was scarce, and is also ideal for some cocktails.
Taste several varieties of cognac and brandy to see what you like, and how much alcohol content you prefer. Attend local beer and wine tasting events where you can sample liquor, or enroll in a wine tasting class.
Don't forget to purchase special brandy glasses called "snifters." Snifters are tulip-shaped glasses that have a rounded bottom ideal for holding in the palm of your hand. The warmth of your hand helps release alcohol vapors, and the narrow opening helps keep those vapors inside the glass. The result is a stronger flavor. However, many people prefer to drink brandy chilled, which mellows the taste. This is a good way to drink high-proof spirits. |
http://www.had2know.com/lifestyle/brandy-cognac.html
Does that basic info seem about right?
I do like the word "snifter", I must say. Sounds like Aussie slang!
"Hey Barry, have a bit of a snifter a' this."
"You didn't just drop ya' guts did ya' Kev?"
_________________
In the end the rain comes down, washes clean the streets of a blue sky town.
Help Nick's: http://www.magpies.net/nick/bb/fundraising.htm |
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think positive
Side By Side
Joined: 30 Jun 2005
Location: somewhere
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| Mugwump wrote: | Haven't tried it, but if some hardy soul imports it over here I'll certainly give it a go.
A really good cognac is one of the finest things life has to offer, though it is probably not what your mum puts in her Xmas cake, PTID. At least I hope it's not- she is wasting her money if she puts good cognac to that use.
It's not cheap - probably about $90/bottle - but Hine Rare VSOP is one of life's (just) affordable luxuries, and worth every cent. |
My sisters bought my hubby that stuff, two Christmases in a row! (Two sisters, no hubbies, cognac makes cheap hubby hire pay) ones half full the other still sealed, does it last? Not keen, I'll take a decent hanwood port or good old American honey straight instead thanks!
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You cant fix stupid, turns out you cant quarantine it either! |
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HAL
Please don't shout at me - I can't help it.
Joined: 17 Mar 2003
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| Compare that to a bad cognac is one of the finest things life has to offer it is not what your mum puts in her Xmas cake PTID. |
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stui magpie 
Prepare for the worst, hope for the best.
Joined: 03 May 2005
Location: In flagrante delicto
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| think positive wrote: | | Mugwump wrote: | Haven't tried it, but if some hardy soul imports it over here I'll certainly give it a go.
A really good cognac is one of the finest things life has to offer, though it is probably not what your mum puts in her Xmas cake, PTID. At least I hope it's not- she is wasting her money if she puts good cognac to that use.
It's not cheap - probably about $90/bottle - but Hine Rare VSOP is one of life's (just) affordable luxuries, and worth every cent. |
My sisters bought my hubby that stuff, two Christmases in a row! (Two sisters, no hubbies, cognac makes cheap hubby hire pay) ones half full the other still sealed, does it last? Not keen, I'll take a decent hanwood port or good old American honey straight instead thanks! |
I'm not a fan of cognac either. I'd much prefer an equivalent priced whiskey. Johnny Walker Blue, Booker Noe, one of the Irish ones I can't pronounce let alone spell.....
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Every dead body on Mt Everest was once a highly motivated person, so maybe just calm the **** down. |
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Mugwump
Joined: 28 Jul 2007
Location: Between London and Melbourne
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| stui magpie wrote: | | think positive wrote: | | Mugwump wrote: | Haven't tried it, but if some hardy soul imports it over here I'll certainly give it a go.
A really good cognac is one of the finest things life has to offer, though it is probably not what your mum puts in her Xmas cake, PTID. At least I hope it's not- she is wasting her money if she puts good cognac to that use.
It's not cheap - probably about $90/bottle - but Hine Rare VSOP is one of life's (just) affordable luxuries, and worth every cent. |
My sisters bought my hubby that stuff, two Christmases in a row! (Two sisters, no hubbies, cognac makes cheap hubby hire pay) ones half full the other still sealed, does it last? Not keen, I'll take a decent hanwood port or good old American honey straight instead thanks! |
I'm not a fan of cognac either. I'd much prefer an equivalent priced whiskey. Johnny Walker Blue, Booker Noe, one of the Irish ones I can't pronounce let alone spell..... |
They all have their place, but whisky for me at least, is a pre-dinner drink, on the rocks. Cognac is more like a complex dessert in its own right. JW Blue is very good, but a bit pricey, I think, for what it is. Bourbon, TP, is for cocktails, at our place, whch is a station of the highest importance, just not a drink in its own right. If i'm drinking a whisky that ain't Scotch, it's Canadian Club - a great, caramel-smoke flavoured drink over ice. Hine rare does indeed keep, TP. About 40 years and it might be past its best.
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Two more flags before I die! |
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stui magpie
Prepare for the worst, hope for the best.
Joined: 03 May 2005
Location: In flagrante delicto
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If you like Canadian Club try Crown Royal Black, another Canadian Whisky that's very nice.
Good Bourbons have their own character like a good whisky.
I use either Jameson or Canadian Club as the mixer whisky. Haig Dimple, Crown Royal, Chivas, Bushmills and a few others in the bottom of the bar are sipping whiskies.
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Every dead body on Mt Everest was once a highly motivated person, so maybe just calm the **** down. |
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